The Benevolent King

If the sunlight from the windows facing South Grand catches one of the tables at Sheesh Restaurant just right, you are likely to be blinded. Fashioned from ornate copper from base to top, the round, low-profile stunners are the first thing you notice. Then you notice the chairs, squat, angular and decked with red and black Turkish fabrics. The same fabric hangs from the walls, as do some colorful, Turkish-inspired paintings and an abstract black and white print of the Bosphorus. And the copper is not limited to the tables. Décor, platters, pitchers, serving dishes — even the flatware, cups and plates given to every diner are made from the stuff. If King Midas' powers worked in copper rather than gold, you'd swear he'd touched just about every corner of this showpiece of a restaurant.

Ben Poremba unveiled the Benevolent King in 2018 with a doubly enticing pitch. The Maplewood restaurant would draw inspiration from the cuisine of his mother’s native Morocco, while Poremba himself — the acclaimed chef-restaurateur of Elaia, Olio and Nixta who in recent years had been more restaurateur than chef — would lead the kitchen. The Benevolent King’s food proved appealing enough, and Poremba’s eye for kitchen talent keen enough, that the restaurant thrived as he stepped back to attend to his other projects as well.

In recent years, culinary tastemakers across the nation have started to realize something we’ve known for a while: St. Louis has a truly extraordinary food scene. Citing a slate of fresh new spots and up-and-coming talent, the food bloggers, celebrity chefs, and restaurant reviewers have coalesced around a narrative: That St. Louis has arrived, transitioning from flyover city to bona fide food destination. It’s an exciting development and one that is well-deserved.

With a menu filled with offerings like Tokyo Nachos (spicy tuna and tempura shiso leaves), it's no wonder the cocktails at TBK are just as imaginative. Take the Shizukesa, or "tranquility" cocktail, for example: It's made with Suntory Roku gin, Giffard Crème de Cacao, Giffard Blue Curaçao, vanilla-kumquat syrup, lime, orange bitters and caper brine.

This Moroccan-inspired restaurant focuses on small plates and exquisite cocktails in a unique and lively environment. You won’t find the menu online, so head in ready for an adventure in big flavors and delicious surprises. 7268 Manchester Rd. | 314-899-0440 | thebenevolentking.com

All of Ben Poremba’s restaurants have unique and powerful vibes, but The Benevolent King might be his most lavish space. Full of dark wood with halcyon features, romantic mood lighting and, of course, excellent food, it’s a feeling you won’t want to cut away from.

– Rating: 4.5 / 5 (19 reviews)– Detailed ratings: Food (4.5/5), Service (5.0/5), Value (4.0/5)– Type of cuisine: Mediterranean, Middle Eastern– Price: $$ – $$$– Address: 7268 Manchester Rd, Maplewood, Saint Louis, MO 63143-2438– Read more on Tripadvisor

- Rating: 4.5 / 5 (19 reviews)- Detailed ratings: Food (4.5/5), Service (5.0/5), Value (4.0/5)- Type of cuisine: Mediterranean, Middle Eastern- Price: $$ - $$$- Address: 7268 Manchester Rd, Maplewood, Saint Louis, MO 63143-2438- Read more on Tripadvisor

This is one of Ben Poremba’s family of restaurants (more of which I’ll mention later). Snag a window table if you can get one, and enjoy all the small plates to share!

We focused on this restaurant inspired by the Moroccan in a distinctive and vibrant setting on modest dishes and superb drinks.