Founded in 1900 by Alberto Pirona, it's a true city institution boasting a history of illustrious visitors, from the nobility of the time to James Joyce, who began to give life to his “Ulysses” right here. The interiors are delightful, and the Liberty-style outdoor seating area is fascinating, almost removed from the traffic of Largo Barriera. A bubble in time where one can indulge in a moment of peace with an excellent coffee or a velvety and ethereal hot chocolate made with high-quality cacao.

If you ever wonder what it’s like to sit at the table where a masterpiece of literature has been conceived, Caffè Pirona is the place for you. James Joyce lived only a few meters away along the street and was a regular visitor to this café, known for its Viennese pastry shop. So, between one dessert and another, right at the tables of the Caffè Pirona Joyce wrote his ‘Ulysses’ and it is not difficult to find the same magic by visiting the place today and admiring its Art Nouveau furnishings.

The bakery “Pirona” started its activity at the beginning of last century, in an Art Nouveau style place that still preserves the original furniture and atmosphere. Since 1991, it is enlisted as one of Italy’s Historical Places. Thanks to its delicacies, it became almost immediately a reference point for many intellectuals and writers who lived and loved Trieste: among others, James Joyce, who lived close to the bakery, Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo.

Caffe’ degli Specchi (great views & people watching in Piazza Unita’), Caffe’ Tommaseo (the oldest in Trieste), Caffe’ Pirona (no sitting – much loved by James Joyce and the Triestini and has great pastries), Caffe James Joyce (beautiful art deco coffee salon near the Grand Canal), Caffe’ San Marco (the literary & students’ cafe’ with bookstore inside)….BTW all of these are great for Happy Hour too!

At Caffe’ Pasticceria Pirona, customers can view the very same tables where famed Irish author James Joyce crafted his masterpiece “Ulysses” while he enjoyed the taste of a delicious Austrian Pastry and a glass of high quality wine from the Italian hill country. This coffee shop continues to offer high quality food and beverages to its clientele.

James Joyce spent much of his 12 years in Trieste at Caffè-Pasticceria Pirona, at the east end of Via Carducci at Largo Barriera Vecchia 12 (tel. 040-636-046). It was here that he allegedly wrote part of Ulysses. With its photographs of old Trieste and gilded mirrors, the premises bear the mark of one of Europe's great remaining literary cafes.

An unfortunate participant in the latest articles of the Italian news, this pastry shop was founded in 1900 by Alberto Pirona. Built in Liberty style and very popular among intellectuals, nobles and the middle classes for many years it was one of the favourite place of the famous writer of The Dubliners, James Joyce.

Address: Largo della Barriera Vecchia, 12, 34129 Trieste TS, Italy. Pasticceria Caffé Pirona, nestled in the Largo della Barriera Vecchia, is a true testament to Trieste’s rich culinary heritage. Established in 1897 by the Pirona family, this historic pastry shop has delighted locals and visitors for over a century.

Passeggiando per la città scoprirai il Tommaseo, il Caffè degli Specchi, il Tergesteo, il Caffè Stella Polare, il Torinese, l'Urbanis, il Pirona, l'Antico Caffè San Marco: locali in grado di rievocare più di un secolo di storia cittadina attraverso vicende che raccontano di cultura, invasioni, letteratura, libertà.

The deeply rooted Trieste’s people passion for coffee lets you feel like stepping into another literary age when you go into some of the beautiful old cafes and charming vintage locals as Caffè Tommaseo, Caffè degli Specchi, Tergesteo, Caffè Stella Polare, Torinese, Pirona, and Antico Caffè San Marco.

His favorite hang-out was the Caffé Pirona, a pastry shop in the old quarter since 1863, taking its present name in 1902. It is now owned by the Di Marchi family, serving the same traditional sweets like the fruit-studded preznitz and coffee mit schlag (whipped cream).

A classic stop for budget-friendly sweets, Pasticceria Pirona is famous for its putizza (a traditional Triestine pastry) and other pastries at very reasonable prices. Ideal for a light dessert or to enjoy with an espresso in a traditional setting.

An icon since 1913, Pirona is a Triestine institution: elegant, old-world, and always buzzing. Try the Presnitz, a spiral pastry packed with nuts and dried fruit, or the rich Carsolina cream cake. A must for lovers of tradition and decadence.

Trieste cafe, bookshop and restaurant, the ancient Cafe San Marco Trieste is one of Trieste’s oldest cafes, with 103 years of activity and 1000 customers a day. Known as a cultural lounge, it is a real institution in the city.

Sadly, only being in the city for a couple of days, I couldn’t make it to this café. It’s said to have been a favorite of James Joyce, where he would often buy a pinolate.