The laminated menus here are substantial, starting with a decent list of antipasti (grilled scallops with rocket leaves and tomatoes; fried eggs with black truffle). All the Roman classics feature, including the house namesake, bucatini pasta Amatriciana with pork cheek, tomato, and pecorino cheese. We opted for the less-Roman-but-very-Italian spaghetti with market-fresh vongole (clams), prepared the way it has always been, with plenty of garlic, parsley, and olive oil.

It encapsulates both the historic elegance of 1870 (when it opened) and the slick, suit-and-tie vibe of the ’60s. The waiters are as sharply dressed as the white-clothed tables, and the food is just as classic. The prosciutto and mozzarella here are unmatched—ham sliced fresh from the bone and extra-creamy cheese delivered daily from Campania.

Some places try to recreate a vintage look, but at this historic restaurant right across from the opera house, the décor hasn’t changed since the 1930s. As the restaurant’s name indicates, this place is even older. It all started in 1870 when a woman from the small town of Amatrice moved to Rome and started cooking bucatini all’amatriciana.

One of Rome’s oldest restaurants, La Matriciana (Via del Viminale, 44) is located right across from the Bank of Italy and the Roman Opera. Expect men in suits, their ties flopped over a shoulder, here on business lunches. The dining room is elegant in an old-fashioned way, but despite the decor and clientele, this is one of the least pretentious restaurants you’ll ever go to.

Some restaurants try to recreate a vintage ambiance, but this historic family-run restaurant opposite the opera house is an authentic original. Founded in 1870, it later expanded and has kept its 1930s style, with marble mosaic floors, art deco chandeliers, white tablecloths, and plates bearing the restaurant’s name. Don’t leave without trying the bucatini all’amatriciana.

And it was just from this village in the Northern part of the Lazio region that back in 1870, a very brave woman left. She arrived with her bundle – “mappatella” in Italian – near the old Termini Station in Rome. And there the woman started to prepare, with very poor means, the renowned “bucatini all’amatriciana”.

A wonderful classic Roman restaurant, with owners who do their best to fit you in no matter how busy they are, and waiters in white coats who are utterly charming. The food is brilliant – Roman classics done very well and presented beautifully. La Matriciana is consistently great every time – a rare find in Rome.

La Matriciana restaurant offers traditional Roman cuisine with a contemporary twist, featuring seasonal ingredients. The wine list, carefully curated by the two young sommeliers, always evolves. Opened in 1870, this restaurant is a Roman institution and one of the oldest restaurants in Rome.

Across the street from Rome’s opera house, this is a handsome, old-school trattoria worth singing about. Someone needs to order the pasta all’amatriciana, but you’ll have to do more to earn your waiter’s respect. Perhaps start with the exemplary puntarelle.

Best For: Classic amatriciana pasta and other Roman pasta dishes. Distance: 7-minute walk from Termini. La Matriciana is renowned for its namesake dish, amatriciana, a tomato sauce flavored with guanciale (similar to bacon) and a bit of red pepper flake.

When we were at the Hotel Columbia in 2012 we asked for a restaurant recommendation. La Matriciana was recommended as very authentic Roman food. The restaurant is just across the street, and down one block, oposit the Opera House.