Head to the casual-chic Bisso Bistrot in the Baroque-laced Quattro Canti district. Highlights here are the crisp, veggie-based first courses and mains. The chickpea, pepper and dried fruit couscous – a 21st-century trace of Sicily’s years under Arabic rule – makes an easy light lunch, but doesn’t compromise on regional character.

Another restaurant good for this and especially good for pasta with cauliflower is Bisso Bistrot (00 39 328 131 4595, Via Maqueda 172A; mains about €15), in what was once a famous bookshop called Liberia Dante. This is right behind the Quattro Canti (Piazza Vigliena), a baroque square that I like to describe as one of the world’s most famous crossroads. Built between 1608 and 1620, the four buildings on the sides of the intersection of the Via Maqueda and Via Vittorio Emanuele are each dedicated with an allegorical statue to one of the four seasons; above stand four Spanish kings of Sicily and right at the top are the four female patron saints of Sicily, Christina, Agata, Ninfa and Olivia.

Bisso Bistrot is a laidback restaurant-cum-art space housed in a former bookshop that wouldn’t be out of place in Paris, except for the view of Quattro Canti. Yes, Bisso is smack bang in tourist central but there’s nothing touristy about it: a Sicilian menu which is as thoughtful and considered as the art on the wall (involtini di pesce spada, swordfish rolls stuffed with raisins and anchovies) fair prices, attentive staff, and creative cocktails. Bisso don’t take reservations and some seating is communal but an afternoon at the best people-watching spot in the city with 1 litre Grillo for €7 as your friend you’ll soon shake off the cons (Bisso is also a Rick Steins favourite).

Lunch is at Bisso Bistrot, a cosy, stylish eatery on bustling via Maqueda serving Sicilian classics done the contemporary way; while dinner could be at Moltivolti – a social enterprise-meets-restaurant that promotes social integration in the city by training and working with migrants. Its menu is an eclectic mix of Sicilian and African influences – think bottarga and lemon spaghetti next to dishes such as maffè (the Senegalese national dish of rice and peanut butter), and fish cous cous – while the place itself is a window into Palermo’s young, entrepreneurial and cosmopolitan soul.

One of the more elegant choices, Bisso Bistrot is where you can find the beautiful people of Palermo sipping fine wines, browsing the books on sale (all by independent publishers), and socialising over sophisticated dishes which include sweet and sour red pumpkin, beef meatballs with citrus fruit and basil, and pasta with artichokes, mountain fennel, curry and fish. Bisso Bistrot is inspired by the belle époque, which shows in its décor, and it has been in the same family for generations (you can read their fascinating story here). You can find Bisso Bistrot here.

Tucked just off Via Maqueda near the buzzing Quattro Canti crossroads, Bisso Bistrot is one of those places that feels cool without trying too hard. Set inside what used to be an old bookshop, the interior blends vintage charm with a modern, boho edge – think mismatched chairs, tiled floors, bookshelves, and a long communal table that invites solo travellers and small groups alike to strike up a conversation. The menu changes seasonally but always puts a creative spin on Sicilian staples.

Bisso Bistrot – probably one of Palermo's busiest and most crowded restaurants that lives up to the cozy, warm and informal climate of southern Italy. It is a business that belongs to the Bisso family, who emigrated from Genoa to Palermo and went through several moments of glory and decay due to wars and economic changes. One of the apexes was when the patriarch, the current owner’s grandfather, kept the former Libreria Dante with a partner there.

The Bisso family's first restaurant had to shut down after mafia intimidation, but Dario Bisso remains staunchly against pizzo (bribes). His new restaurant is located in Libreria Dante, an old, 1870s bookshop with many of the original period details and decor still intact. The terrace on the pedestrianised road overlooks I Quattro Canti, a magnificent baroque crossroads that marks the historic and cultural heart of Palermo.

Located near one of Palermo’s most iconic intersections, this cozy and creative bistro is so worth a visit for lunch. I absolutely love their Pasta alla Norma and Pasta con le Sarde—both super traditional and full of flavor. Pair it all with a chilled glass of Grillo, a crisp Sicilian white wine that’s refreshing and light, especially on a warm afternoon, and you will have a meal you won’t forget.

Nestled in the historical Libreria Dante, Bisso Bistrot is the brainchild of someone who believes in bringing people together through good food. The ambiance echoes the spirit of a traditional tavern, where Palermitans from all walks of life once convened. The most expensive main dish on the menu is 12 euros, so this shouldn’t break your wallet.

Put your name down on the list for a dinner at Bisso Bistrot near the Quattro Canti and enjoy an Aperol spritz or a typical glass of Grillo white wine outside while you wait. Bisso is a casual yet lively restaurant with typical Sicilian dishes and affordable prices. You will love visiting Palermo because everything is so cheap!.

Dinner – Put your name down on the list for a dinner at Bisso Bistrot near the Quattro Canti and enjoy an Aperol spritz or a typical glass of Grillo white wine outside while you wait. Bisso is a casual yet lively restaurant with typical Sicilian dishes and affordable prices.

Great restaurants for solo travelers: Bisso Bistrot ($), Nino ‘u Ballerino ($), Osteria Nonna Dora ($ – big portions!), Buatta Cucina Popolana ($$), Sobremesa – Ristorantino, and Osteria Mangia e Bevi.