Despite its bow-tied waiters, the Biassanot is about as down to earth as its menu, which lists such rustic throwbacks as wild boar, rabbit and veal with balsamic vinegar and mushrooms. Get in early: the check-clothed tables get busy. The zuppa inglese (liqueur-soaked sponge and custard dessert) rounds off proceedings very nicely.

Restaurants that piqued my interest include Da Gianni and Trattoria Dal Bassianot, but both appear closed on Sunday night. (We will probably hit those another time during our 4 nights.)

In dialetto bolognese, i biassanot sono coloro che facevano tardi la notte nelle osterie a suon di vino e primi piatti. Questo locale, a pochi passi dalla celebre finestra di via Piella, omaggia tutti gli amanti della buona cucina: i suoi tortellini in brodo – rigorosamente di cappone – sono tra i migliori della città. Vengono tirati e chiusi a mano, a uno a uno, con un ripieno che è un concentrato di bolognesità: mortadella, lombo, prosciutto crudo e parmigiano.

Trattoria dal Biassanot: maybe it was luck, but when we stumbled on this bustling trattoria we were told that certo (of course) they could provide gluten-free pasta. This was where I tried my first authentic ragu (better known to most palates as bolognese sauce). Accompanied with generous glugs of Sangiovese wine and lip-smackingly salty Parma ham, it was a gut-busting lunch to savour.

Simplified fare gives Trattoria dal Biassanot a casual character that lets the true flavor of restaurants in Bologna step forward. Handmade Bolognese originals in pasta form are adorned with fire-roasted meats and hearty vegetable accents that brilliantly merge the robust bounty of Italy's growers, farmers and wine-makers.

Bologna is famous for three iconic dishes – tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, and lasagne bolognese. At Trattoria dal Biassanot, you can order a trio plate of smaller portions of each one. This is a great way to sample these classic dishes in a cosy trattoria setting.

The wood beams, lace tablecloths, warm service, and other grace notes of this welcoming bistro (the name roughly means “night owl”) do justice to the expertly prepared Bolognese classics that emerge from the kitchen. Light-as-a-feather tagliatelle with Bolognese sauce has a…

They do traditional Emilia-Romagna cuisine, everything from tortellini to passatelli to lesso (boiled meat). The atmosphere is nice and relaxed, but everything is done “the right way”—the waiters tend to be older and they know the menu and their manners very well.

Biassanot (via Piella 16/a) is a strong contender for best trattoria in Bologna. Packed-out with locals and tourists alike every day of the week, it’s clearly a popular choice.