I have to say, the Franconians really know how to make an excellent Schäufele!. The food we had was super delicious, the roasted pig's shoulder itself was cooked to perfection with crispy rind and an amazing ball of Kloß as a side dish (each dish gets one Kloß, we ordered extra). In addition to the Kloß, you get to choose whether you want to have a Sauerkraut or some kind of mashed kale (Grünkohl).

Greifenklau might appear removed from the action at first glance, but the 15-minute walk up the Kaulberg is always worth the views of the city on the way back. Not only that, but you’re rewarded with a regal view of the Altenburg from Greifenklau’s beer garden perched atop a ridge that houses its former beer cellars. My first walk up this hill was on a crisp and crystal-clear autumn morning.

Bamberg is also home to eight breweries: Brauerei Fässla, Brauerei Greifenklau, Brauerei Heller-Trum (Schlenkerla), Brauerei Kaiserdom, Brauerei Keesmann, Klosterbräu, Mahrs-Bräu and Brauerei Spezial. It is also home to one brewpub, Ambräusianum. In a city with a population of 70,000, the residents are ensured to have easy and entertaining access to quality beer and a jovial atmosphere.

It was a bit of a slog up a hill to reach Brauerei Greifenklau but it was more than worth it when we arrived as it has one of the best beer gardens I’ve ever been to. A large, flat garden with 500 seats, it overlooks an orchard and out across to Alterberg Castle. The garden cannot be seen from the road, so it was a lovely surprise and felt very peaceful.

The third of the original breweries for rauchbier in Bamberg is Greifenklau, though this isn’t exactly what they’re known for anymore. They offer a few different beers here, like a lager, marzen, bock, zwickel (kellerbier), and helles. But if it’s rauchbier you want, order a glass of their Greif-R, a lightly smoky offering.

Brauerei Greifenklau: It’s a bit of a climb to get up to this locals’ favorite but if you go in warm weather, the Biergarten out back has a wonderful view of the Altenburg. Most drink the Lagerbier but if you see the Greif-R, it’s a nice lightly smoky treat. Honorable mention: seasonal Bock.

Bamberg is known for its smoked Rauchbier and is home to nine breweries, Brauerei Fässla, Brauerei Greifenklau, Brauerei Heller-Trum (Schlenkerla), Brauerei Kaiserdom, Keesmann Bräu, Klosterbräu, Mahrs Bräu and Brauerei Spezial, and one brewpub, Ambräusianum and some new smaller breweries.

Two other interesting venues, more outside the city center, were Greifenklau and Mahr’s Bräu, both classic Bamberg breweries as well. At Mahr’s bräu the walls are so old and thick and cold, they had to keep the fires in the hearth high. The phrase hot as hell is probably best suited here.

In addition to the breweries mentioned above, here are some more to check out: Brewery Faessla, Brauerei Greifenklau, Klosterbräu Bamberg, Ahörnla Brau, Brauhaus Zum Sternla, Brauerei Keesmann, Ambräusianum. There is more to search out, and the adventure can be yours.

If you are exploring sites on the west side of the Regnitz, you would find the breweries of Ambräusianum, Greifenklau, Kaiserdom, Klosterbräu and Schlenkerla. The east side of the river journey would bring you to Fässla, Spezial, Mahrs and Keesmann.

The Greifenklau brewery is located on the Kaulberg and we didn’t stop here on our beer tour of Bamberg. The brewery attracts visitors with the oldest cellar in Bamberg and a tart, amber-coloured Greifenklau Lager.

As well as those listed (I’ll repeat them: Fässla, Spezial, Greifenklau, Klosterbrau, Schlenkerla, Ambräusianum, Keesman, Mahrs, Weyermann), there’s also Maisels and Kaiserdom breweries. That’s 11 breweries.

Greifenklau – this brewery looks a little out of the way but well worth the visit on top of Kaulberg hill famous for its bottom-fermented Vollbier known as Greifenklau Lager.

We were heading to Greifenklau for a more substantial lunch, and beers. This was a real local spot and had some incredible value beers and food.