This very charming bistrot a vins in the upper Marais is dominated by a big copper-topped bar, suspended factory lamps, and a vintage cracked-tile floor, which gives it bags of timeless Parisian atmosphere. It’s been a huge hit from the day it opened due to the delightful welcome and service of owner Sarah Michielsen and the superb contemporary French cooking of chef Julien Chevalier,” says Lobrano. “The chalkboard menu prices simplicity and seasonality, including starters like steamed clams with herbs or quinoa falafels with spices and tzatziki and mains like grilled pork belly with mustard, creamy polenta and garnished of capers and whole garlic cloves or some of the best veal sweetbreads in Paris with potato puree.

It’s hard to make a long midweek lunch feel cheeky in a city where even working stiffs call their lunch break the “twelve to two.” But Parcelles is where to give it a go. Mismatched ceramics and white tablecloths add sophistication to the vintage tiled floors and wraparound bar—call it a bistro that got Botox. The glow-up translates to the daily-changing menu, which nudges traditional flavors into fine dining territory, like fish tartare with ponzu vinaigrette and a pig’s head terrine that somehow feels fancy, with its delicate ribbons of white fat and homemade pickle garnish.

This 1936 bistro, tucked away in what is now one of the hippest districts of Paris, would be right at home on the set of Marcel Carné’s Hôtel du Nord: vintage furniture; bare stone or beige walls; well-worn period tiled floors; and a shiny copper and wooden counter. The food, however, is the real deal, as the country terrine, pork & creamy garlic polenta and dark chocolate pie reveal. Parcelles offers a splendid opportunity to get a taste of 1930s Paris first-hand.

Parcelles is a popular bistrot à vins, or wine-oriented bistro, near the Pompidou Center in the Upper Marais. Credit...Joann Pai for The New York Times

If I were ever to open a bistro in Paris, it would look a lot like Parcelles: settled on a picturesque little street near the Centre Georges Pompidou in the 3rd arrondissement, with an ambiance that warms your heart as you enter; white curtains on the windows that look onto the street; a giant copper bar; Art Deco tables; white linens; cozy banquettes; and patchwork tiled floors the same as we had in our first apartment in Paris. This 1936 bistro is part of a selection of contemporary Paris restaurants run by young and adventurous chefs and owners, mostly dedicated to local seasonal ingredients, wisely chosen wines, and no attitude other than that to please each diner. Restaurateur-owner Sarah Michielsen signed to purchase the former Taxi Jaune bistro just 15 days before confinement in 2020.

After working in haute cuisine for 10 years, Sarah Michielsen opened upmarket Marais bistro Parcelles with her partner, sommelier Bastien Fidelin, in 2021. Its nonchalant ambience shares obvious similarities with some of Sarah’s favourite addresses – icons like Le Bistrot Paul Bert and Le Baratin have clearly inspired its comfortable vibe. But what distinguishes Parcelles from more traditional places is her unapologetic approach to breaking the rules, with a menu that is not simple, but rather subtly complex – if not skilfully rebellious.

This relatively recent place manages to make anyone enjoy eating calf’s head thanks to the skill of the chef, who prepares a carpaccio sprinkled with capers, pickled red onions and lashings of gribiche sauce (mayonnaise with gherkins). The veal sweetbreads with purée have already received the seal of approval of Parisian gourmets, and so have the tarts, which appear to be made by a Michelin-starred granny. A very, very good bistro, helmed by a duo who enjoy experimenting with wines and clients’ tastes.

Tucked away in a mercifully still ungentrified street in the northern Marais, Parcelles is a very near perfect Parisian bistrot a vins, or bistro with a special focus on wine. It’s immediate charm, which comes from the wake of the addresses that proceeded it at the same address, notably Le Taxi Jaune, is joyously authentic and profoundly Parisian, from the big copper-clad bar to suspended factory lamps and a retro cracked tile floor. This isn’t some fly-in-amber address, however.

Située dans la discrète rue Chapon, dans le Marais, cette pépite culinaire allie une carte courte et délicieuse à des bons vins venus du sud de la France, d'Italie et d'Espagne. Changeant selon les saisons et les envies du chef, on y retrouve, en ce moment, une soupe de légumes d'hiver, des Saint-Jacques grillées, des pâtes fraîche ou encore une tarte au chocolat. 13 Rue Chapon, 75003 Paris, Tel.01 43 37 91 64 A réserver ici

13 rue Chapon, 3rd (M: Arts et Métiers) This wonderful addition to the Paris dining scene has become one of the hardest reservations in town. My last meal there was excellent, especially the pressed pork terrine and the fried sweetbreads, which are often not a dish I’m wont to order, but I was glad we did; it was one of the best things I’ve eaten in Paris. Wine lovers will appreciate the extremely well-selected list.

This tiny restaurant on a quiet street in the 3rd arrondissement gets a strong vote for one of the best places to eat in Paris — especially for those looking for lovely seasonal cooking, a smart wine selection, and a dining room that makes you feel like there’s no where you’d rather be on a rainy day. Reserve in advance and be sure to check out their little grocery and wine store across the way.

They not only take their food and wine selec­tion seri­ous­ly but they even go as far as ded­i­cat­ing a whole space to their spices and herbs. Some even come from their own back­yard, ensur­ing that even the finest details are home­made and cared for. Their menu is much less exten­sive, mak­ing sure that every­thing is made with a lot of atten­tion and from the finest ingre­di­ents.

Parcelles is a modern Parisian bistro known for its elevated comfort food, offering a well-thought-out menu and a strong wine selection. The bistro provides a relaxed atmosphere where food is prepared to make you smile from the inside. Notably, Parcelles also features a wine shop across the street, where customers can purchase more of their enjoyed wines after their meal.

California Wine List of the Year France, presented by Louis M. Martini 2024. In the heart of the Marais (75003), Parcelles has rapidly become one of the places you must not miss in Paris. Bastien and Sarah has built on their experience to take over an old venue and give it new life.

Parcelles is a famous bistro in Paris located in the Le Marais area that specializes in wine. A sommelier is available every meal to help diners find the perfect wine pairing. The menu changes frequently to incorporate fresh ingredients that arrive daily.