La Calhutte is the pick of drinking addresses on idyllic place de la Fourche, the city’s most enchanting (car-free) square (or rather elongated triangle)…

A fortified city, La Rochelle has many defence monuments, the best known of which are the medieval towers of the Old Port, which guard the entrance and have made it world famous. During its history, La Rochelle has lost many of its monuments, such as the ramparts that fortified the city and which were pierced by gates that have also disappeared. These disappearances are estimated to have occurred around 1910-1930 during the expansion of La Rochelle, in particular with the establishment of its railway station.

We have booked in advance a place in the Old Port - in the very heart of the city. Dodging ferries and boats with tourists, we docked at the guest pontoon and on the way to the port office to pay for parking, we could hardly take our eyes off the amazing architecture. After completing all the formalities, we went to explore La Rochelle, passing under the arches of the clock gate of one of the main gates of the medieval city.

In the roads around the fairy-tale-style hôtel de ville (town hall), look out for the 16th-century Maison Henri II, the mirrored gilt splendour of the Café de la Paix on Place de Verdun, and the Porte de la Grosse Horloge – the gateway between port and city. La Rochelle also offers a small, town-centre beach: tiny Plage de la Concurrence, just west of the Tour de la Lanterne.

Under the city’s famous arches, La Rochelle’s most beautiful cafe is listed as a historic monument for its intact 1900s decor. Chandeliers, wood panelling, large mirrors, a ceiling decorated with floral motifs, etc. The writer Georges Simenon used to frequent this prestigious setting looking for inspiration for his detective novels.

This café has a lovely atmosphere and an elegant decor with Napoleon-style woodwork including chandeliers and large wall mirrors. Created in 1793, Café de la Paix is one of the favourite old town cafés where you can enjoy a delicious Cognac made locally in the Poitou-Charentes region.

End your day with a relaxing evening stroll along the harbor. Enjoy dinner at Le Comptoir Saoufé, which offers an excellent selection of gluten-free dishes. If you're up for it, take part in La Rochelle: Les Mimines und Bucht – Bootstour for a serene boat tour around the bay.

Back in St-Martin, there’s just time for an early dinner on the quay at Café de la Paix (three courses £22; 7 Quai de la Poithevinière) before — sand in your shoes, regret in your heart — it’s time to catch the bus back to La Rochelle in time for the 10.30pm flight home.

The classic Cafe de la Paix was created in 1793 under the name Cafe Militaire and changed to its current name in 1990. The beautiful cafe with its art deco design is classified as a historic monument in France and is worth a visit even just for a drink.

If you're on a tighter budget you can pick up some sandwiches or kebabs at Le Rif Restaurant, not far from "A Cote de Chez Fred". It's reasonably priced and won't break your bank, although not nearly as interesting as the seafood options.

Le Café de la Paix: this is where Simenon found inspiration for his novels. A place steeped in history, with its mouldings, big mirrors and high ceiling, all with the smell of a Parisian café.

Le café de la Paix : Simenon y trouvait l’inspiration pour ses romans. Un lieu chargé d’histoire, avec ses moulures, ses grands miroirs et son haut plafond, qui fleure bon les cafés parisiens.