Walking down Hardware Lane means running the gauntlet of cheek-by-jowl waiters trying to entice potential diners into their venues with proffered 15-page illustrated menus. But not all venues rely on their front-of-house to charm the masses on the hoof, and restaurants like the Hardware Club prove this with one-page menus full of straight-up hits. Order this: Tiramisu

Up above Hardware Lane, on the first floor of the iconic Hardware House, is where you’ll find this incredibly small, compelling space. Hardware Club was opened by two childhood friends, mostly paying homage to Valpolicella. That’s head chef and co-owner Nicola Dusi’s hometown, represented with fresh coastal flavours like Don Bocarte anchovies served on toast with Old Bay butter, alongside wood-fired pizza, and fascinating creations like a deep-fried cacio e pepe toastie with mozzarella and leek.

Put down your tools for fresh, contemporary Italian food served from the glossy surrounds of what used to be a social club for members of the hardware industry. Sporting a cosy, neighbourhood feel, The Hardware Club is an intimate all-day trattoria serving up antipasti, handmade pasta and pizza by day, before branching out to share plates by night. The wine list hones in on Australian and Italian wines, accompanied by a snappy selection of Italian cocktails including negronis and spritzes.

The bustling room is fresh and functional, with an open kitchen and a bar slinging natural wine. The menu updates trattoria staples: the crunchy cacio e pepe toastie is an instant classic, and beef carpaccio is lifted with an umami-rich dressing, while some dishes feature a slight Asian accent – the sugo-based spaghetti assassina comes with a serious chilli-heat warning, while a coil of pork and fennel sausage is covered in crisp fried shallots. Must-try dish: Cacio e pepe toastie ($16)

Part bar, part osteria, The Hardware Club puts a focus on 'Italian Specialities'. These regional dishes of the boot-shaped nation have a Cucina Povera-style with dishes like their now-famous roasted bone marrow toast with a salsa verde and fried capers, to chilli crab spaghetti with a Pangrattato to the Pappardelle Al Limone with caramelised lemon and shaved Pecorino Romano.

The Hardware Club is a contemporary Italian restaurant by owners and long-time friends Andrea Ceriani and chef Nicola Dusi. The space evokes memories of neighbourhood Italian bistros, with a homely atmosphere and excellent service. Nicola’s food highlights the quality of the locally sourced (where possible), seasonal produce, and respects the classics while being exciting.

If you’re looking for Italian food that is contemporary and made with global techniques, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better place than The Hardware Club. Chow down on their roast beef sirloin ‘carpaccio’ before moving on to a hearty helping of potato gnocchi smothered in roasted duck ragu.

Two childhood friends are behind this breezy upstairs Italian spot, which pays homage to the neighbourhood eateries of their hometown with textbook pastas, cacio e pepe toasties and a daily dessert that’s best paired with house-made amaro.

While there’s an entire menu of meaty mains, salads and smaller snacks to indulge in, pasta lovers will want to make a beeline for the carbs section of The Hardware Club’s menu.

Oh, actually, how about Tipo 00, Rosa’s Canteen, Il Bácaro, Di Stasio Citta, Grossi Florentino, Pellegrini’s, The Hardware Club, Rosetta, or Marameo?